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The Printupy Desktop 3D printer
This is the Printupy Desktop 3D printer from 2PrintBeta:
The Printupy Desktop 3D printer, a standalone complete system with modern 3D printing technology is not a kit, so no assembly is needed. It is a professional 3D printer made in germany.
It comes with a nice acrylic case and a rigid aluminium frame. It has an integrated power supply and a nice display unit to control the 3D printer. It can print from USB and from SD card, so you can use it standalone on your desk.
For extra precision this machine uses screw-on linear bearings and all axes are driven by steppermotors and T2.5 belts. The core of the 3D printer is the autonomous Echinus board, which can simultaneously control up to 6 steppermotors, and its nice Echinus Vision control system.
The hotend is made from stainless steel and consists of one tube from the extruder to the end. Due to this there is no gap in the nozzle, into which melted plastic could creep, and no plastic parts which could melt or get brittle. It is durable, precise and doesn't need special maintenance.
In the Dualx version, the two extruders are mounted on two seperately moving carriages, so that the currently not active printhead can be safely parked on one side. The firmware makes sure that those two heads automatically switch positions when needed. This way it is possible to separate the application of two different materials or colours.
For the Z axis, this printer uses an innovative method to make sure there are no errors introduced by not perfectly straight lead screws. This printer uses timing belts for the Z axis, so this axis gets pulled up perfectly straight, which ensures that all printed layers are placed perfectly onto each others. Also Z movements are possible in a higher speed. This greatly improves the print quality as you can see in the object below.
The Printupy runs with the adapted OpenSource marlin firmware. The latest version can be downloaded directly from our website.
You can either run it autonomosly using the Echinus Vision control to load files directly from the SD-card or with your PC connected to the printer via USB.
Some 3mm filaments, the Printupy was tested with:
ABS (Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) is the polymer LEGO consists of. It has a melting temperature of about 160°C and is printable at 230-250°C. The Printupy prints very good using ABS. It is neccessary to use the heated printbed at about 110°C to prevent warping. For best adhesion to the printbed, UHU photostic is recommended. If the printer does not achieve the temperature, it may help to reduce the speed of the attached fans. You can either change the speed directly with the control panel or add “M106 P0/1 S200” into the gcode, where “P0” or “P1” is the number of the fan and the value after “S” is the speed of the fan ranging from 0 (off) to 255 (maximum speed). At values below 120 the fan might not even start to spin, so values between 140 and 200 are recommended. ABS is best for functional parts. It can be loaded without breaking too fast.
PLA (Polylacticacid) has a wide melting range from 80°C, where it gets soft to 160°C, where it starts melting. Due to this, the melting zone in the hotend is longer than the one of ABS. It is neccessary to adjust the direction of the fans to blow directly at the gap between the heater and the heat sink at maximum speed. The Printupy can print PLA, but only at low speed. Because of the large melting zone the plastic gets soft and compressed. If the extrusion speed is to high, the compression compensates the force of the extruder and the nozzles blocks because of to high friction. The heated printbed should be set to 60°C to 70°C and additionally UHU photostic helps for good adhesion. PLA is the best material for complicated shapes. It shows almost no warp so large overhangs can be printed easily. It is very strong, but thin parts can be fragile.
Soft PLA is not as hard as PLA or ABS. The melting range is similar to PLA, but the recommended printing temperaure is slightly higher at about 210°C to 220°C. Because soft PLA shows a tendency to bend between the extruder and the nozzle, you can print it only at very low speed (3x to 5x slowlier than PLA). Also the layers doesn't stick together, if soft PLA is printed to fast. When printed with the right speed and temperature it is possible to print rubber stamps or RC tires. It sticks perfect to warm (60°C) glass. UHU is not recommended, because it sticks to well to it.
Laywoo-D3 is a thermoplast filled with 40% cherry wood powder. It looks and feels like wood, but is printable like any other filament. The colour of Laywoo-D3 depends on the printing temperature. Depending on the temperature you can even print wooden-like objects with annual rings. At 180°C, the prints has a light color, at 245°C it becomes darker. Afterwards the printed objects can be cut, grinded or painted.
“Bridge” Nylon filament is an extremely stong material. It is a littly bit springy, but not as soft as soft PLA. It cannot be printed with high speed, because it also has the tendency to bend and block the nozzle when extruded too fast. The best printing temperature is about 245°C. Printing on UHU photostic is recommended. The retraction distance should be increased.
Porolay Layfomm 40
This experimental filament is a foam filled with PVA (polyvinyl alcohol). Using PVA as filling material it can be printed with a 3D printer. After printing the object is still rigid. After dissolving the filling material in water a flexible foam remains. First experiments showed that you need to print it quite slowly, because the layers didn't stick together very well. The dissolving of PVA needed at least 48h. During this time the water was changed every 4-8h. The resulting object shrinked to about half of its original size.
Laybrick is a thermoplast filled with clay powder. It can be printed from 165°C (smooth surface) up to 195°C (rough, sandstone like surface). It is a bit brittle, so the producer recommends to pre-heat it to 40°C, but if feeded carefully it can also be printed at room temperature. After printing, it needs a very long cooling time until it can be removed from the printbed. Overhangs and small parts are a bit tricky, because it stays soft very long which may cause imperfections.
Here some hints for FAQ:
Problem: The extruder turns in the right direction, but no plastic is extruded out of the nozzle.
Resolution: Check the screws which press the filament against the drive screw. If they are too loose, the drive screw will slip. If they are fastened too much, the motor will skip or carve a hole into the filament. Also check that the drive gears are secured correctly on their axes.
Problem: No plastic is extruded from the nozzle, the nozzle is blocked.
Resolution: While the nozzle is hot, insert a thin wire into the orifice of the nozzle to dislocate the blockage. Then let the nozzle cooldown to about 100-130°C and pull the filament out of the hotend. This should remove any contamination together with the filament. Cut of the tip of the filament and reinsert it. If this doesn't remove the whole filament out of the nozzle, heaten up the nozzle again, reinsert the filament, let it cool down again and repeat pulling it out at a slightly lower temperature. If the tip of the filament has a conical shape, you can be sure to have removed it correctly.
Problem: The printed plastic does not stick onto the print surface.
Resolution: One cause could be, that the plastic isn't pressed hard enough onto the print surface. To counter this, reduce the distance between the print head and the print surface. Another cause might be the print surface itself. PLA sticks well onto NOPI tape, on warm (50°C) and cold print surfaces. ABS sticks too well on NOPI tape, here we recommend Polyimid tape on a, at least 100°C warm print surface. We also recommend to apply UHU Photostick onto the print surface, this causes the plastic to stick very well, and the glue can be washed away later with water.
Problem: The printed layer are slipping or not exactly over each other.
Resolution: Several causes are possible for this. First, the belt tension might be too high. Reducing the belt tension eases the axis movement. If the belt tension is too low, the carriage might skip steps and causes slipped layers. Another cause could be a not well enough secured gear. When the gears are not well enough secured on the motor, they can move around and cause slipped layer. Tighten the grubscrews, which secure the pulley on the motor axis. Make sure, all axes are greased well. Sometimes high acceleration causes skipped steps. In this case it helps to reduce the acceleration values in “Control→Motion→Accel.:” to 2000, “Vmaxx” and “Vmaxy” to 90 and “Amaxx” and “Amaxy” to 6000. Don't forget to store the values to memory (press button “1” and then “store memory”).
Problem: With PLA the extrusion stops after some seconds. Pulling filament out and reinserting doesn't help for long.
Resolution: PLA sticks to steel. If the hotend is rough inside, it might stick even better. There are two ways to solve this problem. First, rise the temperature about 5-10°C. Second, season your hotend by putting oil into it, as described on this Blog. Simply dip the first 5cm of the filament into canola or olive oil and push it into the hotend while it has about 230°C. Then (manually) extrude some centimetres. Pull it out, cut the end and insert it again without dipping into oil. Again extrude some centimetres and also pull it out afterwards. Repeat this process about 2-3 times. Please notice: This only works with full steel hotends. Never try this with a J-Head or any PEEK/PTFE containing hotend.
Problem: The nozzle temperature could not be achieved.
Resolution: This is a problem which only occurs at elevated temperatures. The fans are very powerful. Especially for PLA you need very good cooling. For ABS or Nylon you don't need that, so it is recommended to reduce the speed of the fans. You can either set it directly on the menu under “tune→fan speed” (fan2 speed) or “contol→temperature→fan speed” (fan2 speed) or you adjust the start gcode in slic3r (printer settings→custom G-code) by adding a value from 0 to 255 after the “S” in “M106 P0 S200” / “M106 P1 S200”, where 255 is full speed and 0 is fan off.