Wallace Building Instructions

For building your Wallace 3D Printer, we collected a series of manuals and made our own instructions with many pictures.

Building the basic 3D printer body

Prepare Base: (2x)


  • Plastic: 2x base-end, 4x y-bearing-holder, 4 feets, 2 leadscrew coupler
  • Bars: 2x z-axis smooth rods (420mm), 2x threaded rod for the feets (370mm).
  • Screws: 4x M3x30, 6x M3x12, 4x M3x16
  • Nuts: 10x M3 nuts, 12x M8 nuts
  • Washers: 8x M3 washer, 12x M8 washer.
  • Bearings: 4 LM8UU bearings.
  • Motors: 2x Nema 17 motor


  • Insert 2 M3x30 screws into the z-clamp holes. Attach 2 M3 nuts inside of the Z-hole. ( Use another m3 screw to insert the nut from the other side)
  • Insert 2 M3 nuts into the holes for the y-bearing clamp.

  • Insert the z-bar and use the previously inserted screws to clamp it.

  • File a flat on the Nema17 motor shaft.
  • Place 2 linear bearings on top of the base. Put grease into the bearings.
  • Use two y-bearing holders, 2x M3x12 screws, 2x M3x16 screws and 4x M3 washers to screw all together. Use the shorter screw on the motor side. Screw the motorside fully, but leave the other side a bit loose.

  • Push the threaded rod for the feets through the base. Add a M8 washer and then a M8 nut on both sides to fix the threaded rod in the middle. Then add a M8 nut, a M8 washer, a feet, again an M8 washer and a M8 nut on both sides of the rod.

  • Insert a M3 nut into the bottom of the leadscrew coupler and screw a M3x12 screw into it. Push the lead screw coupler onto the motor with the M8 nut hole upwards and fix it with the M3 screw.

  • Do everything again for the second base.

Connect the two bases


  • Plastic: 1x Y-idler, 1x Y-motor holder, 1x pulley, 2x idler
  • Bars: 2x threaded rod for the bases (320 mm).
  • Screws: 5x M3x10, 2x M3x35
  • Nuts: 16x M8 nuts, 2x M3 nuts
  • Washers: 26x M3 washers, 16x M8 washers
  • Motors: 1x Nema17 motor
  • Bearings: 4x 623 bearing


  • Add a M8 nut and a washer to both threaded rods (near the middle). Then add the y- motor holder and again a washer and a nut.

  • Add a M8 nut and a washer to both threaded rods from the other side. Then add the y-idler and again a washer and a nut.

  • Add a M8 and M8 washer to both rods on boths sides and insert the rods into the two bases. Secure them with another M8 washer and M8 nut. All M8 nuts should be a bit loose, so you can adjust the spacing later.

  • Add the motor to the y-motor holder using 4 M3x10 screws and a few (5) washers per screw. The number of washers might vary depending on how deep the screw holes in the motor are. Don’t forget to file a flat on the motor shaft.

  • Screw a M3x10 screw through one of the holes in the pulley and fix the pulley to the motorshaft.

  • Take two M3x35 screws and add a M3 washer, a 623 bearing, a idler, a 623 bearing and two M3 washers. Then place those two screws on the y-idler part and add a M3 nut to both screws to fix it in place. Don’t fasten them too much or the idler won’t turn.



  • Plastic: 1x X-end-right, 1x X-end-left, 1x X-carriage-left, 1x X-carriage-right, 2x idlers, 1x pulleys
  • Bars: 2x smooth rods for the x-axis (310 mm).
  • Screws: 1x M3x50, 1x M3x60, 4x M3x10
  • Nuts: 3x M3 nuts
  • Washers: 11x M3 washers
  • Bearings: 7x LM8UU linear bearings, 4x 623 bearings
  • 1x Nema 17 motor
  • 1x optoendstop flag
  • 1x optoendstop


  • Push two LM8UU bearings in both x-end parts. They will have a strong fit, so use moderate force. And best put some grease into them.

  • Push three LM8UU bearings in the x-carriage parts. Also best to grease them now.

  • Push the two x-axis smooth rods through the x-carriage parts and into both x-end parts. Make sure the alignment is as in the pictures.

  • Use a M3x50 screw and add a M3 washer, a 623 bearing, an idler, a 623 bearing and two washers. Push this stack through the x-end part with the motor holder and add the optoendstop flag and secure with a M3 nut. Fasten this screw till you can’t turn the x-axis smooth rods anymore.

  • Use a M3x60 screw and add a M3 washer, a 623 bearing, an idler, a 623 bearing and two washers. Push this stack through the other x-end part and fix it with a m3 nut. Tighten this screw until the x-axis smooth rods are clamped good. Then add the optoendstop to this screw and secure it with a M3 Nut and M3 washers.

  • Add the Nema17 motor to the x-end part with the motor holder. Use 3x M3x10 screws and washers each to secure it. Don’t forget to file a flat on the motor.
  • Add the pulley to the motor and fix it with a M3x10 screw.

Attaching the x-axis to the base


  • Plastic: 2x top-clamps (optionally)
  • Bars: 2x threaded rods for the z-axis (270 mm), 1 threaded rod for the top(270 mm) (optionally) .
  • Nuts: 2x M8 nyloc nuts, 6x M8 nuts, 1x M3 nut, 2x M4 nuts
  • Screws: 1x M3x25, 2x M4x30
  • Washers: 4x M4 washers, 4x M8 washers
  • 1x belt
  • 3x cable ties
  • 1x optoendstop flag
  • 1x Wades Extruder


  • Put a M8 nyloc nut on both threaded rods directly at the end.
  • Screw a M8 nut on both threaded rods.

  • Stand those two rods into the z-axis couplers and slide the x-axis over the z-smooth and threaded rods until it sits on the M8 nuts.

  • You may need to adjust the M8 Nuts on the Base till it fits nicely.
  • Use a belt and make a small loop on one end with the teeth facing outwards. Fix this loop with a cable tie. Loop it around the pulleys and the idler and cut it to length. Form a second small a loop on the other side and again fix it with a cable tie. Use a third cable tie to connect both loops and fasten it so the belt is under a little bit tension.

  • Push the belt into the slot of the carriage as seen on the picture. Make sure the earlier created loops are directly besides the carriage. Push a M3x25 screw the hole in the slot and attach a M3 nut on the other side. Fasten it till you can’t move the belt anymore. Don’t overtighten it.

  • Attach the Wades extruder with two M4x30 screws, washers and M4 nuts to the carriage. On the non-motor side add the optoendstop flag before the nut.

Attaching the printbed and finishing the printer


  • Plastic: 4 printbed holders,1x printbed, 2x optoendstop holder
  • Rods: 2x smooth rods for the y-axis (230 mm)
  • Screws: 6x M3x40, 2x M3x25
  • Nuts: 14x M3 nuts, 2x M3 nyloc nuts
  • Washer: 15x M3 washers
  • 4x small springs
  • Belt
  • 2 cable ties
  • optoendstop flag
  • 2x optoendstops


  • Push the two smooth rods through the LM8UU bearings in the base.

  • Add the 4 print bed holders to all 4 rod ends. Fix them with a M3x40 screw, a washer on top and bottom and a M3 nut like in the picture.

  • Use 2x M3x40 screws and put them with washers into the middle holes of the printbed and fix them with washers and M3 nuts.

  • Put a small spring onto all 4 screws of the printbed holders, put the printbed on top and fix it with M3 nuts. These nuts can be later used to level the printbed.

  • Take the belt and make a small loop on one end with the teeth outwards. Fix the loop with a cable tie.

  • Push the loop on one of the screws in the middle of the printbed side and put the belt around the idler, pulley and idler till you get to the other screw and make another small loop with a cable tie, but dont tighten the cable tie fully yet.
  • Make sure the y-idler and y-motor holder is correctly positioned so that belt goes in a straight line between the two screws. If all looks fine, tighten the belt and close the cable tie fully.

  • Put a M3 nut on the front belt screw and add the optoendstopflag to it.

  • Add a M3 nyloc nut to both belt screws to prevent it from falling off.
  • Take a optoendstop holder and push it on the smooth z-rod on the side where the x- motor is, directly above the printbed. Push a M3x25 screw with a washer through it and add another washer to the other side. Then add a optoendstop and fix it together with a M3 nut.

  • Take the other optoendstop holder and push it on the threaded rod besides the y-idler as seen on the picture. Use a M3x25 screw, washers and a M3 nut to fix the optoendstop to it like the one before. Make sure the optoendstop is parallel to the threaded rod.

  • Finally make sure all nuts are tight, the endstop flags match the optoendstops and set up the electrical connections.

Building the Wades Extruder

  • A good manual for this task was made by gary hodgson. Take a look at this link
  • If you have a Wades Reloaded extruder, you can find a manual for it at this place.

Building the Hot End

  • The arcol.hu 4.0 hotend sold by 2PrintBeta is a newer version of this.

Instructions for this can be found on the following page.
Or directly on the arcol.hu wiki here

  • The J-head hotend sold by 2PrintBeta is a improved version of the standard J-head hotend.

Instructions for building the J-head hotend can be found on this page.
For general information about the j-head hotend, click on this link.

Connecting the RAMPS electronics

  • A good overview about the RAMPS 1.4 electronics can be found on the reprap.org homepage under this link.
  • Make sure you connect the power supply to the screw connector on the RAMPS board and not to the Arduino itself.
  • Check polarity when connecting the power supply to the RAMPS' screw connectors. The example picture below shows the polarity of the board. Be carefull, there are power supplies with different connectors. The positiv wire might be either red or marked with white writing or completely different. Best measure it before connecting.


  • A good firmware for the RAMPS 1.4 is Sprinter, which can be found here.
  • As host software to control the printer we recommend Pronterface, a nice, easy and portable software which can be found here.
  • And to convert your 3D models into printer paths we recommend SFACT.


build-wallace.txt · Last modified: 2018/07/20 16:08 (external edit)