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build-arcol-4.0-hotend [2011/12/03 14:22]
bonsaibrain
build-arcol-4.0-hotend [2018/07/20 16:08]
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-=== Update === 
- 
-The assembly instructions from arcol.hu are ready on his [[http://​wiki.arcol.hu/​arcol-hu-hot-end-v4-assembly|wiki]] \\ 
- 
-=== Assembling the Arcol.hu 4.0 Hotend === 
- 
-The beginning of the assembly is very well described in the [[http://​wiki.arcol.hu/​arcol-hu-hot-end-v30-assembly|arcol.hu wiki]] for the 3.0 hot-end and it is the same for the 4.0 hotend. \\ \\ 
- 
-Follow this description until you get to this step:​\\ ​ 
-{{:​hotend:​1-arcol.jpg?​direct&​400|}} \\ 
-The next step is to insert the short PTFE-tube inside the heatsink block like this: \\ 
-{{:​hotend:​2-heatsinkptfe-tube.jpg?​direct&​400|}} \\ 
-You should also take a look at the thread inside the heatsink and remove any residues which might be left from manufacuring. Those could block the nozzle later. \\ 
-{{:​hotend:​3-cleaning-alu-winding.jpg?​direct&​400|}} \\ 
-Then you screw the stainless steel connection tube inside the heatsink block. \\ 
-{{:​hotend:​4-heatsinksteel-bolt.jpg?​direct&​400|}} \\ 
-You should use a wrench or pliers to be sure it is firmly mounted. \\ 
-{{:​hotend:​wrench.jpg?​direct&​400|}} \\ 
-At the other side insert the grub screw to secure the PTFE-tube inside. \\ 
-{{:​hotend:​5-heatsinkgrubscrew.jpg?​direct&​400|}} \\ 
-Use a screwdriver to make sure the grubscrew sits tight. \\ 
-Then you can fix the whole construct inside the slot of the wooden extruder connection. \\ 
-{{:​hotend:​7-woodheatsink.jpg?​direct&​400|}} \\ 
-The wood is 5 mm thick. The slot inside the heatsink is a little bit smaller (4.7 mm) so that one has to use pliers or a vice to fix the heatsink inside. This ensures a firm grip of the hotend. \\ 
-{{:​hotend:​8-inserting-heatsink-in-wood-1.jpg?​direct&​400|}} {{:​hotend:​9-inserting-heatsink-in-wood-2.jpg?​direct&​400|}} \\ 
-The filament hole has to be in one row with the connection holes in the wood-clamp. \\ 
-{{:​hotend:​10-woodheatsink-ready.jpg?​direct&​400|}} ​ \\ 
-Finally you screw the previous assembled nozzle/​heater/​thermistor-block onto the heatsink and put thermoresistant isolation around the wiring of the hotend. \\ 
-{{:​hotend:​11-nozzleheatsink.jpg?​direct&​400|}} \\ 
-Be sure the hotend is screwed on tight or else the hot-end will block or leak plastic. The steel-bolt has to cut the winding into the bottom of the nozzle. Use a wrench for doing this. \\ 
-{{:​hotend:​13-nozzlebolt-tight.jpg?​direct&​400|}} \\ 
-It looks like this, if it is too loose: \\ 
-{{:​hotend:​14-nozzlebolt-loose.jpg?​direct&​400|}} ​ \\ 
-The two holes on top of the woodplate have a distance of 50 mm. This fits exactly into the holes of the wades extruder used to connect it to the x-carriage. \\ 
-{{:​hotend:​12-nozzlewadesxcarriage.jpg?​direct&​400|}} \\ 
-You can insert the inlay and clamp the Wades extruder onto the hot-end or widen the hole for the inlay until you can put the upper part of the heatsink into the extruder. \\ 
- 
-After this you can now connect the wires with the plug as described at the end of the arcol 3.0 assembly. 
- 
- 
  

build-arcol-4.0-hotend.txt ยท Last modified: 2018/07/20 16:08 (external edit)